Home on the Ocean

About two and a half months ago we set out from an uncrowded beach in St. Augustine FL for what would become the bicycle journey of our lifetimes.  After pedaling our bikes across the entire country, we successfully arrived in Ocean Beach (San Diego) a week ago.  Our oceanic start and finish were very fitting for our trans-continental bike trip.  Each of us had grown up in coastal settings, and now we all call Nantucket our home.  On Nantucket, an island thirty miles out to sea, it is very challenging to ride a bicycle in one direction for more than fifteen miles without encountering the ocean.  Travelling away from that St. Augustine beach, we took one last look at the ocean in our handlebar rear view mirrors knowing that it would be a long time before we would enjoy the salty air again.  However, we were prepared and excited for our introduction to America's interior, a place very unfamiliar to us.  For us, that is what travelling is all about - making lasting memories (and friends) by exposing yourself to the unfamiliar and unknown.

Leaving Phoenix for the final leg, a much more carefree spirit permeated through the group.  With warm sunny days and less than 400 miles to go, our fears about not finishing vanished.  At the start with 3,000 miles to go, even the smallest problem could be daunting, but leaving the Phoenix sprawl we couldn't be stopped!  We decided, in order to enjoy our final days on the road, to lighten our daily mileage.  We spent peaceful nights in Wickenburg and Hope in western Arizona.  Shortly after leaving Hope AZ, we pedaled onto a footbridge that crosses the Colorado River.  At the midpoint of this bridge we left Arizona and entered California; our final state line had been crossed.  We paused for a few minutes above the rushing water of the Colorado to enjoy the moment.  We had made it all the way to California (!), but our journey wasn't quite complete.  After an extended lunch in Blythe we rode a few miles to Palo Verde CA where we were hosted by another kind member of warmshowers.org, Nancy.  Nancy fed us a delicious dinner of local catfish from the Colorado River, a stones throw from her porch; the same porch on which we slept beneath the stars that night.

From Palo Verde, we passed through the surreal sand dunes in Glamis and then onto El Centro CA.  From El Centro we could see the mountain range (Santa Rosas)  that separated us from San Diego.  Knowing that we would be climbing to 4,800 feet, we planned accordingly for the final few days of our trip.  While resting in Jacumba CA after an intense climb, we were approached (bombarded) by Mach Five who was ecstatic to see us in Jacumba.  Mach Five (Mike), a cyclist and avid adventurer, was extremely excited because he knew we were only a day or two away from our goal.  At mach five speeds, he explained the path to San Diego in exact detail.  And of course, an important detail was spending a night in Jacumba, which was not part of our original plan.  Mach Five set us up at the town's Inn, which is managed by a German named Alfred.  Staying at the Inn allowed us access to Jacumba's hot springs, which are known to have healing powers.  Also healing were the many laughs we shared with Mach Five and  Alfred at the tiny Inn bar.  The following day we left Jacumba with Mach Five's strict guidance, which led us to a campsite at 3,500 feet amidst the Santa Rosa Mountains (Alpine, CA) on the eve of our arrival.

In these last two months or so, we have been constantly in motion, moving forward.  Each day as our journey progressed, an unfamiliar America played before our eyes as if it were a filmstrip.  The scenes and scenery were always changing as we experienced America's interior from east to west.  If you have been following this blog, you know that we have had many, many amazing experiences.  What we feared at the beginning became our reward - the generosity of strangers, friendships made, and lasting memories.  On our final day, we woke early in the Santa Rosa Mountains and loaded our bikes for the last time.  We stopped in Alpine's small downtown for a breakfast to start a day that we were sure to enjoy.  We met a man and his father who just wanted to shake our hands after hearing what we had done.  Later we found out that they had paid for our whole breakfast, once again the generosity of strangers.   Riding downhill out of the quiet mountain towns we were filled with excitement and nervous energy.  We had come all this way and a place that seemed so distant to us was finally about to be revealed.  We arrived in Ocean Beach CA and made our way to Newport Avenue, which would take us to the Ocean Beach Pier and... (deep breath) the finish of our trip.  Cruising towards the beach on Newport Avenue, we passed the crowds celebrating St. Patrick's Day, yet we were focused on one thing - the vast blue expanse straight ahead, The Pacific Ocean.  All the unfamiliar scenes had culminated into one that is very familiar to us, the ocean.  We ditched our bikes, hopped the sea wall, and ran with glory to the water (pictured above).  And while we were not exactly home, it sure felt like we had arrived home.

The picture above was taken by a new friend, Chris, who we met upon arrival in Ocean Beach.  Chris knew exactly what we were up to and offered to film our arrival while riding his bike alongside us.  We hadn't realized he was going to snap a few still photos too.  We think he did a pretty good job of capturing the moment.  Thank you Chris.

Coasting to California

We're starting to see many more long distance cyclists on the road.  It seems that the season of the bike traveler has officially begun!  It is always nice to share stories and road wisdom with the passing kindred spirit.  In many cases we have learned a good deal about what to expect as we head west.  Also within the bike community, we've been fortunate to meet a few members of warmshowers.org.  Warmshowers.org is very similar to coachsurfing.com, but it is geared for long distance cyclists (pun alert!).  Basically, complete strangers take you into their home, feed you, allow you to use their shower, and put you up for the night.  While these amenities are very nice, it is the friendships we have made through warmshowers.org that will leave the lasting impression.

When pedaling into Safford, AZ, we were flagged down by a man running out of his house.  Initially we thought that we may have done something wrong, but it was only Mons - our soon to be friend.  Mons, an avid cyclist and outdoors man, had recently joined warmshowers.org and was eager to host us and hear our stories.  Mons lives in the house built by his great grandfather at the base of Mt. Graham.  The snow capped Mt. Graham stands at 10, 720 feet casting a shadow over Safford at the end of the day.  Also, we are told that the world's most powerful telescope is located at its top.  On short notice, Mons prepared copious amounts of spaghetti and rice pudding that tasted as good as anything we have ever eaten.  After dinner, Mons asked if we needed work done on our bikes.  We mentioned a few small things and before we knew it, Mons set up an impromptu bike shop complete with bike stand and all the necessary tools.  While working on the bikes we shared many stories and laughs with Mons and his son Bryce.  It was easy to see that Mons and his family enjoy life at the base of Mt. Graham - they are in their 4th generation in that household.  With luck Mons and his son Bryce (a cyclist as well) will continue to flag cyclists down as they pass through for many years to come.   

The next stop on our tour was Globe, AZ where we connected with Larry and Susan Hansen through warmshowers.org.  Larry, a father of 8 with 20+ grandchildren, has been cycling Arizona area for years.  Not to mention, he is an accomplised sky-diver as well.  Awhile back he rode from his home to Canada with his wife and a few of those 8 children.  Unfortunately, Susan had to run out for the night upon our arrival; however, she had prepared a delicious burrito spread that we thoroughly enjoyed.  During dinner we learned that Larry and Susan have been hosting cyclists for longer than warmshowers.org has existed.  To prove it, Larry showed us the pictures of all the cyclists who they have hosted, which are hanging on a wall in Larry's office each with a brief story about the rider(s).  After a plentiful breakfast the following morning, Larry made sure to get a picture of us with our bikes and gear.  We are happy to know that we will be joining the wall of the many cyclists from all over the world who have passed through the Hansen home.

Leaving the Hansen's, we climbed the Superior Mountains and descended in unreal riding conditions.  Adrenaline ran high as we whizzed (40mph+) through canyons, over bridges, and even through a tunnel at one point.  At the bottom of the seven mile descent we had that roller coaster feeling in which you really want to go back and do it again.  However, we continued forward to Phoenix where we are currently resting for our final push. As we make our way into California, we plan to keep using warmshowers.org.  We're also sure that we will continue to see more long distance cyclists, who will (like the ones in the past) wonder why we are going the wrong (harder) direction across the country.  The way we see it is that we started at sea level and we will be finishing at sea level.  And with less than 400 miles, the only direction we are thinking about is the one that takes us to San Diego.

For those keeping track, here is the tentative schedule of our trail to the Coast, leaving northern Phoenix on March 11:

3/11 Aguila, AZ (74 miles)
3/12 Quartzsite, AZ (67 miles)
3/13 Palo Verde, CA (42 miles)
3/14 Brawley, CA (68 miles)
3/15 Live Oak Springs, CA (75 miles)
3/16 SAN DIEGO, CA - Ocean Beach!! (68 miles)

Now this will most likely change (weather etc), but that's the framework we are using.  For some reason we think it might be fun to arrive on the 17th... Hope our friends are ready for us!