Connecting the Dots in West Texas

When planning this bike trip, we were most excited to venture off the main roads and see the small towns of America.  We were sure that the large dots and stars on the United States map would entertain us, but we were most intrigued by the small dots or those not even marked.  Moving west of Austin we have managed to connect these small dots, while meeting many memorable people.   Texas Hill Country eventually became the "Texas Alps"  as we were told by the "Bike Doctor" who zipped up to us by motorcycle at the top of a tough summit.  Unbeknownst to us, the "Texas Alps" would be the most physically demanding leg of our journey; however, the views and downhill rides were incredible.  At times it was hard to believe that were were still in Texas while passing through Vanderpool, Leakey, and Camp Wood on Ranch Road 337. Moreover, we were fortunate to find generous hospitality in these high hills - Jerralynn at Lost Maple Lodges let us stay in one of her cabins, in the heart of the "Alps", free of charge!  (entryway pictured above)

Coasting out of the Hill Country, we arrived in the U.S.-Mexico border town of Del Rio.  When looking at a map, you might not see much between Del Rio and El Paso on HWY 90; resources are sparse making it necessary to plan accordingly.  Such plans involved a new mileage record for ACK4ALL.  With a helping wind, we traveled 120 miles to Sanderson, TX in one day (!) passing through the tiny (ghost)towns of Comstock, Langtry and Dryden.  A highlight would include lunch with an eccentric ranch owner named Clay, who had plenty to say about all the passers by, including us ("you boys look like Lynyrd Skynyrd").  From Sanderson we gradually climbed to altitudes of 4000 ft and above.  In Marathon, TX we happened upon an unplanned eco-village/hostel named La Loma Del Chivo where cyclists stay for free.  La Loma Del Chivo is truly a unique place with many kind spirits (Gil, Ingrid and crew).  It was very tough to leave after a morning around a fire with coffee and conversation abound.  If you ever have an opportunity, you must stop here!  The next small dot on the map is Alpine, TX where we were fortunate to meet John and Jim at the Bikeman bike shop.  Not only did they keep the shop open after hours to work on our bikes, but they also brought us to their favorite happy hour just around the corner at Railroad Blues.  John, the shop owner, had completed the cross country bike trip a few years earlier and provided us with some road wisdom over a couple pale ales.  Leaving town the next morning, we stopped to say goodbye to the guys at the bike shop.  Before leaving the shop, John donated a bicycle pump (ours has seen some damage) refusing to except payment by saying "pay it forward"; a great philosophy for the road ahead.

We are currently staying in a tee pee at El Cosmico in Marfa TX, a town where the altitude (4,685) more than doubles the population (2,000).  In each of these small dots on the map we have found a generosity and solidarity that is harder to find in the larger urban areas.  The kind of towns where are you are treated more as a friend than a stranger by people who you have just met and, like in Marfa, you will continue to see if you stick around.  Small towns like Marathon, Alpine and now Marfa reminded us that just because you can't see them on a map, it doesn't mean that nothing is there... quite the opposite actually.